You don't have to travel to Canada to inhale the breathless beauty of the Rockies. A sub-range of the Rockies is right here in the United States. The Grand Tetons, towering over the glacial valley known as Jackson Hole in Wyoming, are as stately as anything Canada has to offer.

And when the summer crowds have left the town of Jackson and Grand Teton National Park, autumn begins to settle in. The best time of year to see this awesome mountain range is in the fall and winter. Outdoor attractions abound in Jackson and nearby Teton Village, and the fabled snow season begins in early December.

Prices dip with the temperatures. A room that'll cost you, say, $360 in July or August is half that in October.

The town itself is called Jackson. Jackson Hole is the name of the wide U-shaped valley carved by the marauding glaciers of ancient times. "Hole" is an old trappers' name for valley. Glaciers still cling to the sides of mountains - even in summer.

In earlier days, people on their way to Yellowstone National Park (just 60 miles away) stumbled on Jackson and just fell in love with it.

Besides skiing in one of three ski areas, there's snowboarding, paragliding, mountain climbing, great dining, raucous nightlife, gondola riding, hiking and on and on.

The median age among Jackson residents is 31 and the town bustles with youthful energy. Eligible men outnumber the women, seven to two. With their own set of wry observations, the women like to say, "The odds are good, but the goods are odd." As a way of explanation, they say that most men came for the skiing but stayed for the lifestyle and never quite outgrew it.

That's a great lifestyle for the visitor, who always feels welcome. There are tons of activities, even with the dipping mercury.

Wildlife expeditions, often aboard open-topped vans, are a great way to observe the animals that frequent the valley, including the pronghorn, deer, bison, coyotes, badgers, moose and the occasional bear. Wildlife Expeditions offers year-round visits, with a maximum of 10 guests accompanied by a savvy biologist (888-945-3567 or www.wildlifeexpeditions.org). The Gray Line bus also features an all-day tour for $80 (800-443-6133).

Since the 1920s, the government has been supplementing the elk diet during Wyoming's harsh winter months. The National Elk Refuge, at the edge of Jackson, welcomes as many as 10,000 elk that congregate there for the winter. It's a splendid sight and you can even rent a sleigh to see it in style.

There are great places to stay and warm your tootsies after a day on the slopes or on the mountain bikes. For families and honeymooners alike, the Snow King Resort's new Love Ridge condos present a home away from home, with most every amenity you can think of. The top-rated two-bedroom runs about $390 from October through Dec. 21 - half the summer price.

And you can ski both day and night at the resort. Back in the day, skiers had to hike to the top. Modern technology has taken the drudgery out of that, and now it's just smooth sailing on the powdery surface. Hotel rates through Dec. 21: $150; June-August: $260. (800-533-7669; 800-522-5464; www.snowking.com.)

Just down the road from Jackson is the resort town of Teton Village. Here, activities range from mountain-climbing lessons, snowboarding to skiing to special activities just for the kids. You can hitch a ride on the Bridger Gondola and view the massive valley below, grab a snack at the 9,000-foot summit or opt for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant.

Teton Mountain Lodge here makes you feel as pampered as a potentate, with its soothing spa, elegant rooms and great views. Lodge rooms run $129-$199 in October and November; $199-$399 in the summer (www.tetonlodge.com; 307-734-7111.)

There's also the ritzy Snake River Lodge & Spa, which is open year-round, with prices starting at $379 in the winter (http://snakeriverlodge.rockresorts.com/; 307-732-6000).

One of the unexpected attractions of the area is the National Museum of Wildlife Art, just 2-1/2 miles from Jackson's town square. More than 4,000 pieces illuminate the depth and possibilities of nature's canvas. A visit is well worth the time (http://www.wildlifeart.org/; 800-313-9553).

Dining is a passion with the nearly 3.5 million visitors who are drawn annually to the area. Well known are the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, the Snake River Grill, the Cascade Grill House & Spirits at the Teton Mountain Lodge, the Westbank Grill at the Four Seasons and Rafferty's at Snow King.

But the "secret," inexpensive little places frequented by locals include Teton Thai in Gaslight Alley, Pica's Mexican Tacqueria and Bubba's Bar-B-Que.

He may have had his faults, but John D. Rockefeller ceded 35,000 acres to the federal government for the national park. In fact, 97 percent of Teton County is government-owned. Entrance to the park itself will cost $25 per vehicle for the week, though you can get day passes, too. If you're planning treks into the national park, it pays to do your homework ahead of time.

The breathtaking vistas of the Grand Tetons have fascinated visitors since the early settlers who tried to scratch a living out of the obdurate valley. Even Ansel Adams recorded its beauty for posterity. But there is nothing like seeing it for yourself.